A Duet

Two concepts have been eating at me of late. First, the more provocative -- why we should give a damn. Second is the characteristics of a good chef.

The first was spurred on by a brunch at the Portage Bay Cafe. Mostly organic but all busy and delicious, it was, to be honest, more than we could eat in one sitting without suffering all day long. They had a small pamphlet on the table titled "Eat like you give a damn." Even the staff shirts were emblazoned with it. Their vision essentially is to care about what you put into your body -- where it comes from, what impact it has on the planet, whether it's creating the least amount of waste possible.

From our first sampling, and what we witnessed of their business during that busy brunch, they are getting it right. The food was abundant and delicious. And, yes, we may have paid a touch more than your average breakfast spot, but at this point in time organic and sustainable products have a higher price tag. That's just the way it is.

We have also gotten caught up in the concept of seasonality. This would have been a foreign concept to diners a century ago. Seasonality wasn't a buzzword or selling point. It was the way things were. You didn't eat tomatoes or strawberries in January. Many chefs who come to these shores have a bit of trouble adjusting to the American expectation that they should be able to have "tomatoes" in January, especially when those same customers then complain to the restaurant staff that the tomatoes are bland. Some American chefs are more flexible and will give us, as consumers, what we want no matter the quality. Hopefully, in time, diners and chefs alike will embrace a seasonal way of cooking and dining.

Please don't misunderstand me when I say "some American chefs." The celebrity chefs with high-profile restaurants, those we see on TV or in print, obviously are the exception. Because of their persona, we are willing to follow their suggestions as to what is best. However, for every celebrity there are 100 chefs out there who are just in it to do a job and give the customer exactly what they ask for -- good or not -- not create an experience. The tide is turning, but we have a long road to travel to where we were a century ago.

Secondly, I would like to speak on the characteristics of a good chef. There is an old saying that you are only as good as your last meal. Recently a long time restaurant did a "Top Chef" style contest to choose the new chef. The winner was selected and is now running the kitchen. Now the first reviewer has visited and voiced their opinion. It was published in a local weekly paper, and let's just say the meal had some flaws.

A good or great chef needs not only to be able to cook amazing food consistently. He/she has to be able to inspire their staff, teach and console them as needed. Discipline and friendship are as important as food or labor costs. No guest should ever know the chef isn't in the kitchen. The chef has to train and have confidence in their staff that they will cook the recipes faithfully -- the same way the chef does time after time.

As the chef you have to smell, taste and touch everything that comes in the back door or goes out the kitchen window. A chef that lets burnt sauce or under-seasoned plates go out is letting all chefs who are striving for perfection down. You are building walls that we are having to knock down to get people through the door.

A good chef knows the devil is in the details and everything is the details.